I’m in Perthshire on a three-day bikepacking trip, cycling with all my gear, and my day starts simply: wake, ride, and wild camp. For a parent constantly checking a calendar, the simplicity feels liberating. Comrie Croft Journeys, led by experienced mountain bike instructor Emily Greaves, offers off-grid adventures that immerse visitors in Scotland’s wild landscapes while providing food, equipment, and guidance. Guests can choose self-guided or led trips, and I’m on my first mountain bike adventure as an adult.
The croft sits amid quiet woodlands and meadows. I arrive early to explore the organic market garden, Tomnah’a, and enjoy a mixed grain bowl with roast root vegetables and local Wee Comrie cheese at Gorse cafe. While I drove, visitors can also reach the croft by train and electric car for a low-emission journey.
Before hitting the trails, Emily runs a mountain biking lesson on the gravel pump track. Over three days, all essentials—clothes, food, stove, tent, sleeping bag, and mat—must fit on our bikes. A French family prepares for a self-guided tour with preloaded GPX routes. I soon realize that minimal packing works best. Emily advises only clothes for cycling, warm layers, and waterproofs.
Fully loaded, we cycle uphill through ancient woodland and Comrie village, then along farm tracks into the hills. Tonight we stay at a youth hostel due to thundery weather. Bikepacking does not always mean camping; many combine tents with hostels or hotels. Emily calls it “smiles not miles,” focusing on enjoyment rather than endurance.
The first day covers 20 miles and 520 metres of ascent. It’s gentle by design, but I find it challenging while learning to descend on loose gravel and trust the bike. We pass fields of sheep, splash through streams, and climb the lower slopes of Carn Labhruinn and Meall Odhar. Clouds darken as we approach Callander, soaking my jacket. At Callander Hostel, we dry clothes, enjoy a cosy pod, and sleep deeply.
Day two is longer, 44 miles with 1,020 metres of ascent. Breakfast of egg and haggis rolls fuels us for the ride through Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. I’ve driven through before but never truly explored the mountains, lochs, and glens. The route is mostly off-road, through heathery glens, forestry plantations, native woodland, and lochside paths, with some quiet single-track roads.
We ride along Loch Venachar and the Three Lochs Forest Drive, linking Loch Drunkie, Lochan Reòidhte, and Loch Achray. The climbs burn the calves, but the descents thrill. At Aberfoyle, we stop for lemon drizzle cake at Liz MacGregor’s coffee shop. Emily, who has completed the Highland Trail 550 and other long-distance cycles, insists energy must be maintained. Cake is a welcome treat.
The tour combines adventure, exercise, and relaxation, with a focus on enjoying Scotland’s landscapes. Each day blends cycling, scenic trails, and comfortable stops, proving that a guided Scottish cycling tour can be both challenging and delightfully rewarding.
